Why does this Kotlin method have enclosing backticks?

It's because is is a reserved keyword in Kotlin. Since Kotlin is supposed to be interoperable with Java and is is a valid method (identifier) name in Java, the backticks are used to escape the method so that it can be used as a method without confusing it as a keyword. Without it it will not work because it would be invalid syntax.

This is highlighted in the Kotlin documentation:

Escaping for Java identifiers that are keywords in Kotlin

Some of the Kotlin keywords are valid identifiers in Java: in, object, is, etc. If a Java library uses a Kotlin keyword for a method, you can still call the method escaping it with the backtick (`) character

foo.`is`(bar)

Useful for tests

Backticks are very useful in tests for long function names:

@Test
fun `adding 3 and 4 should be equal to 7`() {
    assertEquals(calculator.add(3, 4), 7)
}

This makes the function names more readable. We can add spaces and other special characters in the function names. However, remember to use it only in tests, it's against the Kotlin coding conventions of the regular code.