Do cell phone batteries contain protection circuits?

Those batteries do have built-in protections, but not the kind of ones you see on sparkfun batteries. They have thermal protection required for charging the battery and sometimes low charge cutout device which prevents discharging too much the battery. However, there is no overcurrent protection, overvoltage and noob-proof abuse protections...

You have two pins for + and - (trivial) and a temperature pin to detect if the temperature rise is in normal levels. This makes sure that the battery do not explode when charging it. In practice, you read it as a variable resistance. Some batteries also has a fourth pin tied to a voltage divider allowing the cellphone to detect the battery capacity. If I remember well, Samsung is using such a thing to allow the cellphone's firmware to detect the capacity of the battery when there are many variants that could fit in the battery socket of the phone. This feature is not used often, because they usually try to max out the capacity of the battery, especially with modern smartphone, but it wasn't so rare with old not-so-intelligent flip phones such as mine :)

Obviously, charging LiPo batteries is a risky thing if you don't have a proper setup. Disclaimer: I do NOT recommend you charging your batteries without an approved charger.

That being said, one could charge it with any LiPo compatible charger. Cell phone batteries typically have only one cell so it is pretty easy to recharge. It should check the battery voltage and divide by 3.5 to 4. This will indicate the amount of cells in series. Then using a non balancing charger to recharge the cells to appropriate levels would work. If charging the first time, one would hypothetically want to check with a multimeter if the batteries are getting hot with a remote circuit. Also, that one might want to do that outside at a place where a battery catching fire or exploding would not hurt anyone around.

Seriously, just drop them to your nearest electronics store's recycling bin. Its much safer. You can buy cheap LiPOs at some RC hobby store such as Hobby King or whatever with an approved charger for like 30$. It is really not worth the risks of injury. Also if those batteries were taken out of a phone they are probably already at the end of their practical life, so...

Edit:

To complete on your question about your management IC: basically, yes you could use it. It looks like it can charge up to 500mA, which is typical for cellphone batteries. But... make sure to configure your IC to recharge at correct voltage levels, which may end up being trial and error since not all batteries are created at exact same target voltage. If I were you, I would charge to one of the lower options first (4.35V or 4.4V maximum) and limit the charging to 7.5%-10% for the first one. IF it goes well and the battery doesn't overheat, you can try other settings. If it looks hot, revert back to a lower settings. I ever saw a LiPo overcharging and while it didn't explode, gas formed and the battery inflated a little. If you see the battery inflate, disconnect power and dispose of the battery. If you take great care and you know what you are doing, it looks ok.

I would try to get one of these unsold phones and the wall power supply. Than use the phone as charger. So you eliminate any mechanical problems, you have near to perfect contact and you can be sure, that no lipo is burned. As a bonus you get a quite reasonable Display, if the lipo is still charging. I use an old Nokia 3310 for that matter for two years now and i am happy with this solution.

I live in South Korea, currently a paradise for masses of discarded but perfectly useable 3.7V Samsung batteries - in this regard, its a paradise. I have a drawer full of Samsung batteries of all sizes and flavours, but all are the typical 3.7V.

And it is an excellent question - how to practically use them?

The first and simplest method is to make use of the separate battery charger that comes with the phone - these are very common in Korea, and from what I see, people use them more often than in other places - in other words, actually popping it out and flipping between a charged and uncharged battery.

(Cultural note: Korea has a long tradition of people opening and removing their battery during the day to swap in a new one, then charging the other. This is why Korean customers expect to get two batteries when they buy a phone, although this is decreasingly common with non-removable batteries in the newer phones. This tradition began in the time of the Chosun dynasty, more specifically, Sejong the Great. Many historians note that he may have had a Nokia 1011, but for understandable reasons, most Korean historians vehemently deny this.)

Anyhew.

The great thing about these chargers is the quality circuity inside that can safely charge almost any three-pin 3.7 battery of any size. I say three pins, because these charger boards will not start until they detect the temperature pin connected. This narrows them to use for cellphone batteries only, but if you have a drawer full of them, then this is a great device. For flexibility, soldering on three color-coded wires to the battery terminals of each battery, plus three to the cellphone charger makes it very easy to swap batteries in and out.

There is a cool instructable that shows how it actually can be done: instructables.com/id/Recycled-Cellphone-Battery-Charger/

The other option is to use one of the versatile TP4056 charger boards off ebay. They are really great for a simple system, such as this mobile sensor pack....

As you can see, it doesn't use the temperature terminal of the battery. I am not sure what exact protection circuitry sits inside the battery, but the TP4056 board does the job and keeps the thing safe from undervoltage. I have been running tests on it, and it really is great, because I can either keep the battery fixed in place (bolted even, as you can see), or I can swap out another battery that was charged somewhere else.

One could theoretically hot-swap the batteries, and keep the system running.

The next problem is that you now have a 3.7V, and not a 5V. I solve this by connecting the LOAD output of the TP4056 board to a fixed voltage 0.9V>>>5V boost board. You string that in with it, and you get the 5V you need to run electronics like an Arduino.